Відео

I did not cut mine as I’m terrible at things like that so I just drank another beer and carried on. It really depends if you need to take it out and put it back in often. I had my out for about 3 years and then eventually did put it back in to sell. So, that’s a consideration (selling) to cutting it as well. Either way, these cars are plentiful in pick a part auto recyclers so easy enough to pick up two used back panels if you go that route. Cheers!

@@ChanceSummer i did cut mine and did cut myself. But it was much easier than removing all the plastic.

Thanks for stopping by and dropping a note.

I respect that.

@@ChanceSummer so do I

Hi, thanks for watching. Note, I’m no mechanic but my crap breaks a lot so I’ve learned a lot. Look at around the 50 second mark and pause it. Look for PCM fuses next to relay. You didn’t say what year or make your truck is. Best to Google that along with fuel pump fuse location. For example, here is a result I found for an 05 Sierra, which matches my 04 Escalade. www.justanswer.com/gm/7jbku-fuse-fuel-pump-2005-chev-2500-hd.html

@@ChanceSummer oh Sorry I Have A 2002 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 . Stalled at the light . I’ts A Crank No Start now & I Don’t Have Any Fuel Pressure Coming out the Rails As Well . I Tried The Pin Trick Yesterday & Had No Luck . I Was Told The Fuel Pump Is Bad but I’d hate to do that job and the truck Still Not Start So im trying to rule out the Silly Stuff that could Cause The Same Symptoms As A Bad Fuel Pump.

@@findon143 Got it. I’m surprised a fuel pump would fail while running. Did it give you any symptoms like hesitation, cutting in and out or not starting sometimes before it died? Mine did. And when it was doing that I would take a big rubber mallet and hammer the bottom of the fuel tank (under passenger behind driver side) and it would work again for a bit. Haha. So you can try that. Also, if you have multi-meter you should check for constant power in the top right hole after you remove the fuel relay. It should have 12v all the time. If no power then my understanding is the computer (PCM/ECM/whatever it’s called) has cut power to it. This can be caused by loose key in ignition or loose ignition so it thinks there is no key and the anti-theft mechanism GMC used at this time was to cut power to fuel pump. Does your little key / lock icon on your dash go away after you put key in ignition and turn to ACC2 (not enough to engage starter). You can try wiggling key around or another key if you have one. Then the fuse you want to check on yours appears to be the same as mine which is right next to top left (looking down on box). Look at the link from my previous reply and it is circled in a box. But your fuse cover lid should have a map. Check all fuses that start with PCM. If no luck then maybe the pump is indeed dead. The fuel pumps are a real pain to change in these trucks because you have to drop the tank or cut a hole in your floor. I did the later here: ua-cam.com/video/zRUqoPtPTBg/v-deo.htmlsi=KOwa9I31vV1ux3o6.

Oh no, that’s a first. It may not get far but it should at least attempt to start and before it starts and realizes the load is not balanced the pump should come on and get rid of some water. Maybe try unplugging the washer or flip the breaker it is on so it forgets and do this a few times and it may get enough of the water out. Good luck, that’s a tough one.

I had an 04 986 (non S). Sold it in a moment of weakness :( I liked it better than mine 996 in fact, which is now sold too. Went back to air cooled (now have 964) but it handles awful compared to the Boxster. Happy trails.

its a 1 year old Nutone PP6501 with maybe 3 hours of total use.

Yup. I agree with you, maybe overheating. Don’t know why though. Voltage, wiring, maybe? Hit it with a hammer yet? Fixes a lot and if not, makes you feel better. Haha.

Excellent! I would put these on again! Pretty easy job and fixed my clicking. Now, we have only put on about 20-25k so no idea if they’ll last 200k like the originals but I suspect the car will be long dead by then anyways. Ha.

All from top of engine and the bottom rear drivers side is really painful. Only 1/4 turn at a time using a wrench. I don’t have any fancy tools. A normal socket won’t fit in there but a wrench does and even better if you have a fancy open face socket wrench. I put a little sealant on the inside of the seal to hold it to the cover and let it dry for a bit. Otherwise, if you use no sealant to hold the gasket chances are it will fall out when trying to install. Good luck! It is doable but a pain.

Sorry to hear about your computer under the drivers seat getting wet. It’s very common in convertible 986 and 996. They do sell a water proof case for it or you can go Red Green and drill a hole in the low spot of that cavity to let water out. Depends on how nice you want to keep the car. Haha. As for those connections I don’t think they are anything special. Just whatever female connectors that fit on to the prong will do. Just hit up Home Depot or some place that sells an assortment package of wiring connectors. Hope that helps and as you can guess, I’m not mechanic so take any advice from me at your own risk. 😁

Thanks for the question. My drone is set for RTH at 100m height. But, what I’ve learned from this experience and help from the community is that you’ll lose visual communication first, it will then warn of a bad connection but still take input, so be careful not to fly around, other than up, at that point. The drone won’t return for 5 seconds after losing complete connection so, within that time it will likely be executing your last received command - mine was bank right (lateral movement), and with no sensors on the sides of Mini 3 Pro it hit a tree before returning home. So, be very careful if it starts to lose connection or the video lags, it won’t instantly RTH it will just keep doing what you told it before it lost connection. Cheers.

👋😐

Oh man, no idea but sounds like you should send an email to DJI support. If that happened to me I would guess some kind of hardware failure OR wireless interference. Can you switch your drone to dual band and then single band to see if one is better than the other. Sorry, I can’t give better suggestions. Cheers.

Oh no 😟. You are the second person to mention Litchi, I’ll have to check it out. And the best tip I’ve gotten in the replies is to tape an Apple Air Tag on the drone. Cheers.

@@ChanceSummer The Litchi Mission Hub is free to download and use, so you can start planning flights without even spending the $25 for the phone app that you will need to fly those saved missions. I routinely send my drone on 7-mile round-trip missions of 23 minutes duration while I relax indoors with the controller switched off until 5 minutes before the drone is due back when I step outside to land it manually. The best $25 I ever spent was on the Litchi app. Flown over 3,000 miles under Litchi control thus far with all my older DJI drones.

I used Litchi to fly my older DJI drones on fully autonomous waypoint missions, and on numerous occasions, smart RTH has brought the drone back due to low battery, most often with the turnaround occurring far beyond RC signal range.

Not if it crashes first. Haha. 🤣 but yes, it things go well and it is set to RTH on the settings it should. There is also the option to set it to hover or land.

@@ChanceSummer I know, but you should have it set up to rth unless ur on a bot or something, but it shouldnt crash and then hover??? Or maybe I just mis understood something in the video.

The thing is, control signal and video signal are different things. When you lose video feed, unless you're flying VLOS, you're flying blind - BUT you're still flying. So your stick input works, but your video feed is gone. So, no conspiracy here, it's just that when video is gone, most people assume control is also gone. Evrntually you might lose control, but there is usually some time elapsed between the two.

@@olabergvall3154 I got the footage. I lost video feed and GPS at the same time. I always let go when this happens. Footage from the drone shows that it stopped for a few seconds and continued to fly right for almost a minutes full speed until it crashed on a side of a mall. All within line of sight less than 500ft from me. How i go from 21 full GPS bars to none in an instant. Sent it out for warranty repair and DJI told me quoting from the email: "Weak/No GPS Signal: If the drone is flying in an area with no/low GPS signal coverage, such as indoors or in urban canyons, it may struggle to maintain a GPS signal which can cause the drone to lose its position or drift right and may not respond as normally in strong GPS signal. According to your flight data, the incident was caused by non-manufacturing factors." Now i'm forced to use one of my DJI care refresh on my Air 3. I usually just repair if the quote is under $150. This phenomenon can be different for others because a friend of mine his Mavic 3 Pro just fell out the sky when he lost GPS and video. They honored free repair in his case though.

@@olabergvall3154 Thanks for this information! Lots of great info and tips came out of this experience. Cheers

An AirTag is a brilliant idea! That would help if someone found it and picked it up long after the drone battery went dead! I’m going to buy one and tape it on from now on. Thanks!

Good comment about the battery becoming disconnected in a crash. 3 out of the 3 crashes - slow learner I know! - I’ve had with my Mini 2 resulted in the battery disconnecting from the drone meaning I couldn’t use the “Find my drone” flash & beep feature nor could the drone reconnect when I got closer to it. Thankfully after a very worrying 1/2 hr or so I was able to locate the Mini2 visually on both occasions. I was extremely lucky to be able to do so, especially as one crash resulted in the drone being caught up in the branches of a tall tree requiring quite a climb to retrieve it.

@@ChanceSummeryou can even 3d print your own AirTag mount. I debated doing that but since my mini 4 is so small I think I’m just gonna double side tape the AirTag to the drone top. So long as it doesn’t interfere with GPS or vision cameras. They see pretty small and thin those air tags and ultra light. 3m is gorilla double sided tape has like a 15lb pull rating so it won’t go nowhere

Was thinking the same thing :)

lol. Thanks for the note! 😁. The way the drone video feed suddenly disappeared off the RC I actually was worried a goose or eagle (big angry bird) knocked it out of the sky). The whole reason I was in that area was because I was filming the goose (as seen in the video). Bird karma.

Excellent information! I love the DJI community. I turned on my remote, and the drone, went to the 3 dots on the video feed screen, clicked on Safety and then Advanced Safety Settings, and confirmed I’m on RTH. So, I guess I was just unlucky that before the drone realized it had lost connection and before it went to auto RTH it executed my last command - bank right - and crashed. It was just a quick movement of the right stick though - can see it on flight recorder - it was not continuous. So I know the drone lost connection AND still continued to execute the command instead of immediately stopping. With all of this awesome information and help I’m going to run some tests (I’ll video them) to see how long the drone has to be out of contact before it auto-RTH. This will give us an idea of how long it will execute the last command received before stopping. All that said, I’m really happy with all the additional Find My Drone features this thing has. Saved mine. Cheers.

@@ChanceSummer Also it's worth checking RTH altitude is set correctly for your location. Ideally you want it set to clear the tallest object between you and your drone. Don't set it too high because if it's windy and you're on low battery, it will climb to the height you set using precious juice and fight stronger winds probably leading to not making it back home! I added your channel, it's always good to connect with other drone pilots.

@@pdtech4524 Nice! I never thought about changing the RTH altitude every time I fly. I had it set at 100m from my first flight. I’ll pay more attention now. It’s interesting to note because I was flying in a river valley (below where I took off) I was at -19m when crashed.

@@ChanceSummer Yes the telemetry is always relative to your position. So where you launch from is your 0m altitude, if you fly down into a valley you'll get a negative altitude reading. So just be careful how you set your RTH altitude, I usually set mine to clear the highest tree 🌳 like 35m and remember it will fly back in a straight line to you. Your drone has obstacle avoidance, it's a good idea to use that around trees etc.

Yes but it's no good if you lose connection to the controller like he did. 🤔

I thought if you lose connection the drone will fly back to its last home point 🤔